Current:Home > MyGivenchy goes back to its storied roots in atelier men’s show in Paris-InfoLens
Givenchy goes back to its storied roots in atelier men’s show in Paris
View Date:2024-12-23 17:07:17
PARIS (AP) — In times of self-searching and doubt, fashion houses often find comfort and power in going back to their roots to re-center and find their voice again. Givenchy, in the wake of the departure of designer Matthew M. Williams, did just that. This season, the designer-less house held on Wednesday a menswear show at their Avenue Montaigne atelier, an archetypical couture setting. Models walked slowly past guests like in bygone decades, in a show whose emphasis was intensely on the clothes, rather than showmanship.
This season, there was no razzmatazz, no celebrities — just a pared-down audience, nibbling madeleines, Turkish delight, and sipping champagne around dinner tables. It was a small, sometimes nostalgic display that laid bare the finesse and power of the age-old house’s famed atelier, making for a collection brimming with style, finesse, and luxury.
GIVENCHY GETS ICONIC AND REVERENTIAL
In the very atelier where the late fashion legend Hubert de Givenchy once crafted his most iconic designs, Wednesday served as a poignant reminder of the house’s profound ties to couture. Givenchy’s design studio showcased fine tailoring with an array of suits featuring bare arms emerging gracefully through holes inserted at the suit’s underarm, while sleeves flapped elegantly on top.
This design ethos paid homage to the founder’s affinity for innovative cuts. The color palette incorporated hues of blue, including Klein, pale, and navy, alongside gray and brown, honoring the founder’s distinctive preferences. However, the collection also embarked on explorations of sapphire, a color so beloved by de Givenchy that he saw it as an alternative to classic black.
It resulted in a muted color scheme for a relatively understated collection. Nevertheless, the simplicity of the designs did not equate to a lack of interest. Among the thoughtful minimalist creations was a pearl loose tunic top, part-Star Trek, part-ER, paired with fur chapka headwear. The melodious strains of Leonard Cohen’s “Take This Waltz” wrapped the collection in a nostalgic aura.
One particularly striking element was the reimagining of the iconic blouse blanche, capturing the essence of workwear with a couture twist. Coats and suits sported incisions reminiscent of de Givenchy’s penchant for capes.
However, amidst this transitional phase for Givenchy, certain designs, while luxurious, occasionally felt somewhat disconnected, mirroring the house’s ongoing journey to redefine itself. The show left fashion enthusiasts anticipating its next move — the choice of a successor to Williams, who will undoubtedly have the challenge of steering this venerable fashion house into its next chapter.
BOTTER BLASTS BOLD CARIBBEAN FLARE INTO ECLECTIC SHOW
Botter, renowned for its “Caribbean couture,” unveiled an eclectic mix that blurred the lines between sartorial finesse and sportswear, peppered with their signature quirks. The collection by designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh was a vibrant demonstration of their knack for fusing sustainability with avant-garde fashion, a philosophy that earned them the 2022 ANDAM Grand Prize.
The show featured a brown, nipped-shouldered ensemble with minimalist lines, uniquely accessorized with a woolen beanie proudly declaring “Caribbean.” This piece, more than just a headwear, was a nod to the designer’s heritage.
In striking contrast, a classic black tie and white shirt were paired with urban sneakers, embodying Botter’s flair for fusing formalwear with casual elements. Bursts of eye-popping yellow in a loose tunic gown brought the Caribbean’s vibrancy to Paris.
A recurring theme in the co-ed show was the haphazard and voluminous layering of garments in divergent hues, creating a funky, energetic vibe on the runway. This approach, emblematic of Botter’s innovative spirit, has set them apart in the fashion world, showcasing an aesthetic that marries sustainability with cultural richness.
As models sashayed down the runway in this collection, Botter’s vision for an environmentally conscious and culturally diverse fashion industry was crystal clear. The collection was not just a display of garments, but rather a celebration of the brand’s journey in redefining the norms of fashion with a sustainable approach.
EGONLAB ROCKS PARIS WITH FIERCE BLACKS
In a display of futurism meets fashion, Egonlab’s latest collection lit up Paris Fashion Week with its innovative designs -- and dramatic lighting. The Wednesday show saw a runway bathed in dappled beams, setting the stage for a series of fierce, black men’s looks that commanded attention with their oversized, harsh shoulders.
Designers Florentin Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix, known for their blend of artistry and boldness, presented a show that seamlessly combined elements of the past and future. A standout piece was a black tuxedo, nipped at the waist, creating an Asiatic silhouette that epitomized East meets West. Gothic Glam Rock met 70s flair in a billowing sheeny leather trench coat adorned with ridiculously long tassels, evoking a warrior-like presence.
The collection then took a softer turn, with moments of blossoming florals and total look denim, showcasing Egonlab’s versatility and commitment to diverse expression. One particular soft foulard print look, held by a neck hoop, added a touch of provocation with a cutaway revealing a nipple.
veryGood! (7319)
Related
- Rachael Ray Details Getting Bashed Over Decision to Not Have Kids
- No, you don't have to put your home address on your resume
- Why oil in Guyana could be a curse
- Panel of judges says a First Amendment challenge to Maryland’s digital ad tax should be considered
- Rafael dissolves into a low pressure system in the Gulf of Mexico after hitting Cuba as a hurricane
- Taliban detains dozens of women in Afghanistan for breaking hijab rules with modeling
- Federal prosecutor in NY issues call for whistleblowers in bid to unearth corruption, other crimes
- Georgia Gov. Brian Kemp tells business group he wants to spend $1.8 billion more on infrastructure
- Bitcoin has topped $87,000 for a new record high. What to know about crypto’s post-election rally
- If Pat McAfee is really Aaron Rodgers' friend, he'll drop him from his show
Ranking
- 'Unfortunate error': 'Wicked' dolls with porn site on packaging pulled from Target, Amazon
- Nick Saban career, by the numbers: Alabama football record, championships, draft picks
- RHOBH's Kyle Richards Reveals Plans to Leave Hollywood
- AEW star Adam Copeland revels in the 'joy' of war god Ares in Disney+'s 'Percy Jackson'
- Pistons' Tim Hardaway Jr. leaves in wheelchair after banging head on court
- 1 killed, 3 injured in avalanche at Palisades Tahoe ski resort, California officials say
- Blood tests offered in New Mexico amid query into ‘forever chemical’ contamination at military bases
- Federal judge says Alabama can conduct nation’s 1st execution with nitrogen gas; appeal planned
Recommendation
-
Golden Bachelorette: Joan Vassos Gets Engaged During Season Finale
-
Police arrest a third person in connection with killings of pregnant woman, boyfriend in Texas
-
Florida welcomes students fleeing campus antisemitism, with little evidence that there’s demand
-
Why oil in Guyana could be a curse
-
Man charged with murder in fatal shooting of 2 workers at Chicago’s Navy Pier
-
Alabama coach Nick Saban retiring after winning 7 national titles, according to multiple reports
-
Mega Millions January 9 drawing: No winners, jackpot climbs to $187 million
-
Missouri lawsuit accusing China of hoarding pandemic gear can proceed, appeals panel says